Climbing technical tips

Climbing the learning process is difficult and hard. From climbing to mix climbing to the field, technology in winter, step by step. It's better to learn from the experience of instruction, which can help you avoid a lot of mistakes. If there is a system of ice and snow courses or lectures, you can acquire knowledge, improve skills, and improve your sense of security, of course, is not free of charge.
Teaching videos, books, and magazines are all sources of knowledge, but sitting in the chair is not a function of improving technology. In the beginning to understand the complexity of the ice and snow situation,
Into the ancient village living fossil touch 2007 51 · before the golden week disk into the underground iron unique scenic tours focusing domestic well-known enterprise climbing action and protection technology, should first learn through a large number of top rope. When you begin to learn the pioneers, you should start with a relatively simple line (compared with your top rope). Before starting to climb, must be based on the current situation of the route and temperature and other factors carefully judge, if the ice condition becomes worse or thinner, the previous situation is not worth the introduction.
Technical movement M
“ &rdquo type hand split kick; climbing action has been out of date. Rigid movements are flexible, efficient, and reliable. Learn from rock climbing a lot of action, as the ice on the smooth dance. Stem (backstep (split side support), cross step) and highstep (high step? (heelhook (heel hook), layback, step bounce (jump step) is the use of the action. According to the actual situation, to find the most effective way to climb. Your goal should be to control, technique, and balance.
Crampons and boots
You need a pair of single or double hard teeth teeth clip crampons. Many single master trust foreteeth crampons, some people even do not count it. The single is particularly suitable for mixed crampons and ice line, because it can be accurately scored a point; in thick ice, double front is more stable. At higher temperature or soft ice, two front teeth are also applicable, while the single front will put this ice into the mud.
Make sure that the teeth are sharp. They will hand file file shark teeth. However, be careful when using it wrong to play ice movement is very easy to scratch the clothes, you can only love. “ GoreTex” (hehe).
When I first started on the ice, you might find it hard to trust your crampons, especially the weather is very cold, the ice is brittle case. Many beginners have to play a lot of times every step of the ice. No need to always let your feet and the ice can not be too - one or two stable, accurate kick enough to support your body. Quickly fix your feet, and then move the body weight over the past, but to ensure safety. If it is not stable, it is not able to make the following movements.
At a low angle of water ice or middleweight alpine ice line, flat foot palm type with good technology. The following hard stomp crampons teeth firmly nailed into the ice, and twist your ankle. All the teeth are teeth, then the body sideways to walk. Pure French technology makes the leg more comfortable, but in a steep waterfall is difficult to use and not safe. The rest of the time, in a small incline to still flat feet. The common method is a leg with a flat sole way to stand straight, and most of the body weight on the leg, the other foot with front teeth fixed (help keep balance).
The use of the technology, to choose the best foothold - such as in front of the ice axe chisel, flat or concave surface or a small ice edge. Accurate and effective play ice one or two times can be properly placed foreteeth. The heel foot, relax your leg, and make second of the ice in front of support (Note: the compiler for beginners fear, often go up the heel, leaning forward against the ice wall, such as physical exertion, fatigue is not easy, stable) for single foreteeth crampons three point support stable form double front is formed, and the four point support. When climbing ice or rock, or rock on the edge on the front will crack, keep your feet stable, avoid skidding.
Ice tool
Is the ultimate weapon of the ice axe. You can use ice, ice, ice before catching cut order, hard ice, ice for digging screw positioning, or slip on the ramp when used in animals. The key part is the pick axe (crane tip). The pickaxe has three basic forms: positive curve and straight pick for alpine climbing, ice climbing for inverse curve. Keep your pick sharp, good performance (hand file). The other end is pick shovel head or hammer. Ice climbing or mixed route, some ice climbers will select two hammer, so need to knock Pitons, easy operation, while avoiding facial injuries (Note: you may wish to compile the test, when a hand held straight on fixed, the other hand on the side of cross operation will hammer. What? Oh, if the tool sprang up and hit his face! ). For mountain climbing, need a hammer and a shovel head, the shovel for digging snow, dig step or platform.
The handle is holding part, is also part of the power transfer. In steep ice, 6 feet (1.83 meters) above the height of the people can choose 50cm long handle, short people can consider 45cm long. Bent handle than straight shank in convex ice and easy to use, and can prevent the finger joints made in the ice. Straight shank picks in alpine environment better, because when do protection can more easily pick boots insert hard snow. At the end of the handle is a sharp spike in the low angle, the ice is useful as a walking stick. Relatively blunt tail tip will slip on the ice, and too sharp and may cut clothes, moderately sharp is more appropriate.
The wristlet is also very important, but often ignored by people. A good single gloves and should be easy to emerge, should also firmly fasten the wrist and forearm to reduce fatigue.
When using a small ice axe split end, holding axes like holding the racket handle firmly, see ice proper placement, such as a suitable pit, previous pick holes or solid borneol, far almost you can get, but not too far, too long distance if you pick, once not right and you want to start again, want to pick out will be very strenuous. Bend your elbow, will move to the head and then pick, forward force (like the whip like), will pick wedge into impact point. If you are using a reverse curve of spike, spike into the ice before the wrist force, the spike has a downward trajectory, get maximum penetration effect, reduce the broken ice. For beginners, do not bite wrist movements, can try to end the elbow movement downward force wielding pickaxes. After the ice axe splitting into the arms straight, with a rather than your hand to bear the weight.
When ice is split, observe whether the ice is broken. Listen to the voice of Dangdang “ ”, and feel the pick tip into the ice axes vibration. Don't believe it unless all the signs indicate that the ice is strong. Ice, ice cave or hollow case, with the pick tip hooked those holes into, can save strength; if you are the leader, can gently shake the ice, the pick point below the serrated bite ice.
If the ice is not strong, or if you feel tired, you should first test the ice. With most of your weight on ice, shoulders down. For the situation that the ice is stable, the test is low efficiency, however, it is absolutely necessary in the case of ice condition.
Many of the best ice climber with two picks staggered up the way, rather than a double pick and into ice. The first split into a pick up, feet, use this axe and lock body, the other one picks split into higher positions. I move, then the following pick to split. By this way, can expand every step of brandish pick distance, improve the efficiency of movement. At the same time, because of the distance between two picks, because once the split caused by ice ice breaking, not to pick two lost support. A strong climber can use the staggered ascent method on the vertical ice wall.
Adjust the body position, try to use both feet to support body weight, save upper limb strength. Rock climbing is the same reason: less than 90 degrees (slope down angle) can directly stand up; try to use split side support (Stem) action; in doubi hip adduction, close to the rock wall (ice); in elevation to the weight inward, on the support foot; moves up and down the foot pedal force to obtain dynamic. Fully use the feet, stable, rest assured to climb.
Ice protection
Ice, ice, ice hammer type hook is to protect the equipment - General conditions of ice is strong enough. I believe that once naive, always able to successfully protect the fall cone. I had the strength test of hundreds of times in various ice conditions, now I do not believe that the protection of the ice on the ice is poor. It does not matter to the up or down. If the ice is not completely screwed into (screwed to the handle position), is not to protect. Better be careful not to fall before you do a good job of protection.
According to the laboratory test results of my own and BD, into 15 to 20 degree angle with the vertical line of the ice, from the bottom to the direction of the screw in the ice, is the strongest (Figure 5). In the past people usually use the method from top to bottom set, when the tension when the ice beneath the ice outside of the ice, crushed ice bending experience lead to broken or pulled out. The field test proves that the angle of 20 degrees from the bottom to the top of the screw into the ice than 20 degrees from the strength of screw down almost twice as high.
Twist the ice, to find a piece of solid ice, such as flat or slightly concave surface, no ice in the protruding place. With the axe will brittle ice surface of slag removal, and then knocked a shallow hole for positioning cone. From the perspective of convenient operation, the height should be between screw ice chest and waist position (Figure 6). If your position is right, you can put it in a high position to reduce the length of the fall. If the ice is of good quality and sharp enough, the operation is very easy - as long as it is screwed into the shallow hole location can be. Twist ice should have been screwed to the padlock padlock hole, then buckle into the rope, can breathe now. If the ice is thin, the tooth has hit a rock and ice, the ice ice exposed part of up to two inches (5cm) above, should use the rope tied in the ice, to reduce leverage.
Because the rotary cone design progress makes it easier to use the hammer into tube ice out many years ago. However, there are still people who will bring some hammer into ice, because they can not forget those who screwed a pick it takes 5 minutes to the terrible day. Ice ice hook can be used for sewing, frozen soil and ice, etc., but if you can safely set ice or rock protection, do not use ice hook. Pitons, rock plug, plug and mechanical rope in the mixed lines are useful.
Let's look at the previous Pitons and expansion bolt. Due to moisture, corrosion of the previous fixed anchor is influential. Sometimes the corrosion damage is invisible. So be sure to have backup measures.
Your head protects your head from the ice. Must wear a helmet, climbing without a helmet is stupid. Ultra lightweight helmets save weight, but can't afford more strikes. For long-term use, or should choose a strong. Best to facilitate the adjustment of the size, so as to bring or take off the hat is more convenient.
Double (double rope or half rope here means) is suitable for dry ice climbing rope. They are not in the water under the condition of frozen hard. If the waterproof coating is worn at the time of rock climbing, it's bad. So if possible, keep on a rope for climbing. If the rope starts to absorb water, you can use a special waterproof agent for regeneration treatment, the general scale of the climb to the store for sale. Double rope protection to the two rope alternately buckle to the point of protection, to avoid the rope drag, reduce the impact of the fall (through the increase in the extension of the rope). Once there is a rope broken, another can be used as a backup (Note: due to the more possibility of the compiler, weapon carrying a fall injury climbing rope was much bigger, so the backup problem is especially important than climbing to). A 55m or 60m 10 to 11mm can also be used as a single rope climbing, single rope rope can simplify the work.
Don't make a mistake - far more dangerous than climbing rock climbing. Uncertainty is more, the ice is not as stable as rock, and the fall is often unpredictable. Must pay attention to safety, to avoid the risk of avalanche or fall ice. You can learn about this by climbing or avalanche. Don't do things that are beyond your ability. If you don't have to learn about the knowledge on the slopes, don't try to go through it. There are likely to be in the field of avalanche environment, should carry rescue equipment, such as avalanche beacon, snow shovel, etc.. The key issue is to know how to use them!
An ice climber should have winter survival, rescue and emergency technology. Should have good clothing and equipment, as well as orientation and skiing. Field survival training can provide first aid and refuge knowledge for climbers. You and your partner should be trained. If someone has an accident, the other person knows how to deal with it. Careful choice of your partner, not the right choice is the greatest danger.

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