03
2017
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Climbing difficulty classification


There are two commonly used systems ---NEI and Systems Scottish (WISystem)

The most reasonable grading system is Canada and France. This system used in Canada and the the Alps, the two district ice climbing activities accounted for about 3\/4 of the world, American climbers like JeffLowe are also using this classification system, it consists of two numbers, like II-5.

The first figure (Rome digital) said " severity of " it represents the remote, the length of the climb, the difficulty of descent, the degree of danger, the continuity of the line. " I" on the side of the road is only one pitch, but " VI" to enrich the alpine climbing experience, unless the top climbers climb quickly, otherwise it is inevitable to sleep.

Second numbers (Arabia digital) " technical grade " the most difficult part of the technical difficulty, the vertical state, to ensure that the difficult, the type of ice, the duration of the rope is also calculated. " 2" climb requires only one axe; as far as I know, the world only a few vertical or nearly vertical line and there is no guarantee, or a huge hanging wall is " the 7" level route. Because it is very much like the WI American system, this technology is also expressed as a classification of " WI" so the WI system is basically like a technical level.

This system contains considerable information, because the use of two different forms of the difficulty of grading, however both is not completely independent, in other words, easy technology routes generally do not need to spend too much effort. (because you can climb down)

Difficulty level:

Level 1: the short distance of the road to climb, there is a safe and easy to ensure that the fall.
Two: one to two rope distance, in the easy to reach the place, a little dangerous, the next climb or hang down easily.
Level three: low altitude, the number of pitches, may take a few hours; or need to walk or ski at a distance, to have cold tourism good; or occasionally a chilling injury; usually hanging down.
Level Four: high altitude multi pitch or in the sparsely populated areas, requiring mountaineering and winter tourism, is likely to suffer or avalanche rockfall, drop difficult may want to use the artificial fixed point vertical drop.
Level five: mountain climbing wall, long distance, superb ability and cost, will suffer avalanche or bad weather, may be long and difficult to fall.
Level six: mountain wall, multi pitch, only the best climbers can be completed in one day, there may be a cold mountain to climb the logistical problems.
Level Seven: the largest and most difficult mountain climbing in the Himalaya mountain range (JeffLowe definition).

Scotland ice climbing grading system is also related to the technical level (7 to 1), the most difficult to assess the rope distance, including the type of climbing to climb, the thickness of the ice, the ice looks like a pendant lamp, mushroom or protruding hanging wall.

Level difficulty:

A: you can go up only crampons.
Two: single rope from 60 to 70 degrees of ice, contains a small amount of short steep order, to ensure safety.
Three: 70 to 80 degrees of ice, usually thick and hard, may contain a short distance of the cliff, but have a good rest, to ensure safety.
Level Four: 75 to 85 degrees of ice, good to ensure that the area of sporadic distribution, there is a little significant vertical zone, usually the ice is very good, to provide a good.
Level five: there are a lot of 85 to 90 degrees ice wall hard rope distance, almost 5.9 of the skill and ability to rock climbing.
Level six: very steep, not what the rest hard rope hanging distance, often need to ensure that ice is not good, safety suspicious, require high skills, almost climbing 5.10.
Level Seven: almost vertical ice wall, very thin, the ice is not good, do not know if there is no attached to the rock, the protection is not easy or can not, is about 5.12 of the professional rock climbing.

Shenzhen mountain climbing Adventure magazine

Ice level profile

The difficulty of climbing by experienced climbers climbing for the first time determined, the reference for seasonal and temporal variations of permanent alpine climbing routes. The difficulty of the traditional division of the Scotland system, is divided into 7 grades:

1 level of difficulty: the climbing route is shorter, the ice and snow slope, the slope is less than 50 degrees.
2 level of difficulty: climbing route is longer, ice and snow slope is more than 50 degrees, some places have ice, snow or rock ridge.
3 levels of difficulty: climbing route is longer, some local slope close to 90 degrees.
4 level of difficulty: 90 degree vertical ice wall climbing route is longer, climbing difficult, part of the lot can also have mixed climb.
5 level of difficulty: climbing route is very long, almost all 90 degrees vertical ice wall, difficult places, many of which have a lot of mixed climbing terrain.
6 levels of difficulty: climbing route is very long and most of the alpine permanent ice wall and mixed climbing, especially difficult.
7 level of difficulty: Himalaya and other high altitude mountains and no one involved in the remote areas. Climbing the route is long, the difficulty and the danger is very big.

American mountain Geoff · Luo according to these 7 levels and division of the permanent ice wall and seasonal ice wall. AI is a permanent ice wall, and WI is a seasonal ice wall. When the climber sees one of these two symbols, it is clear that he is going to climb the seasonal ice wall or the permanent ice wall.

Although the ice has difficulty level, but in different seasons, different climate will change the difficulty of climbing.

The ice wall often will be changed, each climber in climbing, ice climbing difficulty to add a level, so it can ensure the completion of climbing.

Before the last ice climbing enthusiasts in the preparation of information, to collect data of ice wall will go to carefully. Ice must be bold but cautious and prudent.

Snow and ice rock mixture (M8 - M1) Zhang Zhongshu, Qiu Zihuan compile

They are a generalization of the established system for rating ice described above. There is no consensus. However in the method which seems somewhat dominant in Colorado (home of the most desperate mixed climbs, probably due to lack of ice and championed by: -)) Jeff Lowe, the letter " M" is; added to the technical grade. A " M5" is; supposed to be as hard as a " 5" in; pure ice (the equivalence is obviously hard to establish but involves dry-tooling and similar) maneuvers. Sometimes, the grade is detailed into the pure ice part and the mixed part, ie Octopussy is " M8 WI5" since there are extreme dry-tooling moves to reach the free hanging stalactite, but once established on it the ice is not that hard. H Owever, usually the latter part will be omitted since it is not the crux, leaving only " M8" The rating could read. Global something like an algebraic formula: " II M8 WI5 X" (X in my opinion:; I think all the free-hanging stuff can easily collapse, as some climbers have experienced in the early 90s. I would be cautious with the current fad for this sort of climbing).

This is the system described above, and is not consistent, however, this approach seems to be mainly in Colorado (mixed climbing on a number of places, it may be too little ice) and is supported by Lowe Jeff. Letter " M" " M5"; " 5" equal (refers to the difficulty), but contains dry climbing and similar techniques. Sometimes the grade is detailed into the pure ice part and the mixed part, Octopussy is " M8 WI5", because with the dry hanging stalactites climb quite difficult, but if the ice is relatively simple. However, usually the latter part is omitted, because it is not the most difficult part, so only " M8", complete classification reads like " II M8 WI5 algebraic formula; X" (X may be easy to fall, some climbers in the early 90's had experienced this kind of climbing on I will be very careful popular.

Another way to rate the mixed climbs is to give a rock-climbing rating for the rock moves. This method is preferred by the Canadians, who seem to be somewhat doubtful about all the M9 climbs The problem here: -). Is that you have ice climbing gear, so usually the rating is not " absolute" but; relative to how it feels with crampons, and therefore easier than a normal rock rating, but again there is no real consensus on this. (from Quang-Tau Luong)

Another method is to assess the level of verification of mixed climbing climbing part, the Canadians are frequently used, they basically are problematic for all M9 level route: -), the problem is that you have ice climbing tools, so it is not absolute grade " ", compare with crampons, so general simple rock climbing, all in all not equal.

Ice rock is mainly mixed ice and rock mixed, or use ice axe and crampons climbing dry-tooling (dry climbing). The difficulty is to set relative to the Chunbing wall or rock climbing way between the two, as can be imagined is difficult to equate, so only relatively.

appendix

On the ice rating Comments system (Quang-Tau Luong from)

Comment on ice climbing route

Although Albi Sole refers as grade 5 as the " of ice; 5.9 climbing" dont kid yourself. A, grade is a quite serious 5 lead undertaking, more comparable in my opinion to a lead. I am once 5.10 trad of the only person that I know (who): -) has been able to lead grade 6 ice while being only a 5.10- climber. You will see that grade is actually rather difficult 5 ice to find. For instance a guidebook like the one for Western Ontario or Western British Columbia has 140 pages but lists, only a handful of grade There are no 5 climbs. grade 6 at all in well established areas such as New England Ontario. British Columbia (well I, must say was, until 1996, when The Theft was climbed in BC This is because). A grade climb has to have about a 5 Half-pitch vertical, and a grade 6 a full pitch vertical, which brings me to the second point. Vertical is 90 degrees, not 85 degrees. This seemingly insignificant difference is actually quite important. When you are on ice you might have 85 degrees the feeling that it is overhanging because of, your position, but in fact there is not that many formations which are strictly vertical, except free-standing columns.

Although Sole Albi's fifth level is equivalent to " the 5.9 level " of the ice climbs, but don't be mistaken; the fifth level pioneer is quite a difficult task, with my opinion not less than the traditional 5.10. Once I was the only one who had only 5.10 of the climbing ability, and the sixth level was the pioneer. You can find fifth ice climbing difficult to find the route; but like Western Ontario or Western British Columbia guidebook has 140 pages, but only some of the five routes; in fully developed areas such as new England, Ontario and British Columbia have six sister route. This is because the fifth level is about half of the rope is perpendicular to the sixth level is the entire rope from the vertical, will let me to second points. The vertical ninety degrees instead of eighty-five degrees, it seems not to have what difference is actually very important, because of your position, when you are in the ice wall of eighty-five degrees, you may feel in the hanging rock, unless it is independent of the cylinder.

Are only There a handful of Grade 7 ice climbs the in world to the best of my knowledge: pure.

As far as I know, there are only a few of the seventh level pure ice climbing routes in the world:

Riptide, Gimme Shelter and (Rockies Canadian) the first were established mid (80s Gimme). Shelter is still unrepeated because, it has never reformed completly.

Massue and, La Lyre both, at Fer de Cheval La, (Alps both), established the Northern same day in Dec 1991
Of Vapors Sea (Rockies Canadian), winter 1993 (7+)

A part from those, there are a handful of one-pitch climbs which are mixed, and which have received a grade 7 T. Renault in France (Laventure, CEST laventure next to Glacenost in Northern Alps France and Lowe in the) J. US (Terriebel traverse, Seventh Tentacle, Octopussy 8, in Vail?? CO) are the authors. While Thierry climbed " Laventure, CEST laventure", the chunk of ice; when he was standing collapsed, and he had to do a one-arm pull-up that he though he was not capable of. Jeffs climb are free-hanging stalactites which are reached through a dry traverse. Protected on the rock and with a preplaced screw from what I have heard. The second ascent party said that one climb was over-rated. The first grade climbed in the world MIG 6 Have been Bridaveil Falls HT Telluride in the mid 70s. In the Alps it Les was Viollins although the first ascent solo by Chantriaux in 1982 is somewhat controversy..

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